We arrived in Merida by bus on a Saturday, in plenty of time for wandering from our hotel down to the end of Paseo de Montejo, where the music and dancing are scheduled to start at 8. Time is proximate in Mexico, so the performances didn’t start quite on cue, but the stage was up and the audience filling fast when we arrived. By the time the first singer took the stage, there was a healthy-sized crowd filling the street end, with food and craft booths on the sidewalks and the street behind. The performers — sumptuously costumed and well-rehearsed — volunteer, and once the music and dancing started, groups followed one after another: a singer, a marimba band, and several dance troupes.
Acting on a recommendation from our innkeeper that the lady without any sign made the most delicious salbutes, we snacked while we watched the festivities. Finally, fatigued as we were, the performers outlasted us, and we could hear the music all the way back to the hotel.